I just got back from an amazing 18 day trip south of
the equator in Chile that only had 2 stops: Torres del Paine park in Patagonia
and the capital city, Santiago. The trip was part of the Global Perspectives
class I took this spring. The class portion is a week in Santiago, but many
people went down early to make the most of the experience. The following post
is only on Patagonia; Santiago is soon to follow.
First, we had quite a bit of help from two classmates
who are from Chile and both spent a lot of time in Torres del Paine. Felipe and
Marcelo helped us plan the trip, made calls to airlines, and reserved hostels
and busses for us. This trip would have been far more difficult if it was not
for their generosity.
Since this is an extraordinarily long post, here's a
summary. Ken Newcomb and I flew to Punta Arenas at the tip of South America,
then took a bus to Puerto Natales and another bus to Torres del Paine park.
This is the famous park where you see the iconic images of Patagonia. We hiked
the park for five nights and six days and saw some of the most aggressive,
hostile, vertical slabs of stone I've ever seen. The glaciers that carved them
are still there and frequently let loose avalanches that make thundering booms
through the valley. We saw huge condors soaring high in the sky and neon blue
glaciers and icebergs contrasting with a solid grey colored lake. It was fall,
and the leaves were bright red and yellow; few other tourists dared to trek so
late and we had the park practically to ourselves. In the end, it was a grand
adventure; no one got seriously hurt and everyone had fun. It was a completely
epic life experience.
For food, we ate two packs of oatmeal for breakfast;
lunch was two cliff bars and some salami with crackers that were crushed. We
ate a Mountain House dehydrated meal with 2 servings for dinner. We brought
everything from the US, except the salami and crackers. We also had some nuts
that we bought in Chile, but the mice got to most of them.
Here's the play-by-play:
Day 1 and 2: Traveling. Flew from Denver to Atlanta,
waited for three hours then flew to Santiago and met up with my trekking buddy
Ken. Another three hour layover then a five hour flight to Punta Arenas. A two hour
wait for the bus then a three hour bus ride to Puerto Natales. We arrived at
8.30pm and scrambled to buy last minute food and gas for our stoves. We luckily
found a small camping store open which sold us gas and we picked up some crackers,
nuts and salami from a grocery store. Checked in to our hostel, Kawaskar run by
Omar, then went out for our last big meal and went to sleep around 1am.
Day 3: We caught a three hour bus into Torres del
Paine at 7.30am. The mini bus was full, and Ken and I were the only ones with
full packs planning on doing the whole W trek We were also the only North
Americans. There was a group from Argentina that didn't want to hike, just see
the sights from the bus, and a Dutch couple who were planning on hiking, but
traveling light and staying in the lodges. On the way there, we saw a fox and a
big heard of guanacos.

We arrived into the park and started our hike from
Las Torres. Our hike that day was pretty calm with warmish weather. We had to
roll pant legs up to make shorts because the uphill trek was a burner. About
half way up, the wind really started to crank and I felt like Mario in the
windy level of Mario 64. Seriously, I was glad I had trekking poles to keep
from blowing off the mountain. Ken
and I cruised to Campamento Torres where we called it a day. Our time was fast,
and I think it's because we've been training at a higher elevation in Colorado.
The suggested time was three and a half hours and we got there in two hours and
twenty minutes.
After setting up camp, we hiked up to see the famous
Torres. Amazing towers that go straight up. Iconic. That night we ate our first
dehydrated meal and discovered the perils of mice. Those furry vermin robbed us
of the nuts we bought in Natales while we were away from camp for just ten minutes.
We caught them red handed and had to abandon the snack.
Day 4: Long hike with lots of sun and nice
weather. We woke up around 7am and
started hiking about 8am. This is the section of the trail that Felipe and
Marcelo said was boring and that we should move fast over, but there was
nothing boring about it. It was fall, about November equivalent, and the bushes
and leaves were turning yellow and red. Plus we had great views of Lago
Nodenskjold.
Around 2pm we literally ran right into two fellow Coloradoans
and classmates. Ken and I were in the same class as Betsey, but didn't know for
sure that they were even on the same trail or doing it the same time as we
were, so it was quite a surprise. Betsey was traveling with another MBA who
just graduated named Charlie. We were headed in different directions, so we
chatted for a bit then parted company.
This was a tough day and we finally made it to
Refugio y Campamento Los Cuernos which lies right at the foot of the famous
Cuernos. We could have camped there, but we wanted to position ourselves well
for the next days, so we ate a snack, coped with our pain, and kept going for
another hour and a half to Camamento Italiano. This was a long day and
according to the map, we hiked 26.5 kilometers (16.5 miles) which was estimated
to take 10 hours. Not sure how long it took, but definitely less than that.
We dined on more dehydrated food and again had
trouble with mice, but nothing was lost. We left camp again for ten minutes and
when we walked back, there were mice running all over camp in front of us and
one can crawled up a tree and down a string that we used to hang our trash. He
was having a meal on our trash and pretty stoked to have found it. Another one
was a total idiot and crawled into our tent, even thought there was no food in
it and the tent was only open a crack at the top, so he had to work hard to get
in. Ken grabbed him with gloves and flung him out.

That night we heard many avalanches falling down the
Glaciar del Frances. In the morning you could see them spewing puffs of snow
from the face.
Day 5: Easy day with amazing weather and
aggressive/violent mountains. This day we packed up but left our gear hanging
from a tree at the Italian camp while only using a day pack to hike up the
Valle del Frances. What a great feeling! Hiking with only a day pack felt like
wearing nothing at all and we both really appreciated the break. We went up
past the French Glacier and saw some amazing peaks around Campamento Britanico.
There were many wind barriers built up at the British camp, but it was very
calm and sunny for us; I think we got really lucky with the weather. We went a
bit further to where the trail was marked as ended with branches intentionally
placed in the way, but we went on for 30 min or so to get even better views.
Since our dehydrated meals were holding out well, we brought a sausage and
pasta one to split for lunch. Having a hot meal was really nice, and the
scenery was a complete recharge.

The peaks up there are just straight up, glaciers are
everywhere, and some peaks were constantly spewing windblown snow down. They
are so unusual looking, so much more vertical and sharp than Colorado or the
Alps that I've seen. When I showed the pics to my mom, she said it could be a
castle because of the straight up walls. We saw condors up high in the sky and
you can tell they are huge because of how slowly they move. The size looks
normal for a bird, but the slow movement tells us they are WAY up there. Their nine
feet wing span is no joke.
We then hiked down to the Italian camp, got geared
up, and walked down hill to Paine Grande. Paine Grande has a lodge, restaurant
and a place to camp. This is the only place we had to pay to camp as well as
the only place we were able to buy a real dinner and breakfast, of which we did
both. The dinner was a tuna salad, rice, some sort of beef, and a lemon meringue
dessert. I don't eat beef at all, and haven't for 8 years, but this time I made
an exception and it was worth it. We also had the luxury of drinking beer.
Austral is the local Patagonian beer and this place had all types for 1000
pesos each (about $2). After a full dinner, 5 beers, and a few hours warming up
next to a fire, we departed for our tent outside in the cold. As a side note,
we again ran into the Dutch couple- they were staying at that lodge and were
headed out of the park the next day.
The map put us at 14.5 kilometers (9 miles) for the
day and I'm not sure how long it took us b/c we had lots of breaks and took it
easy. It was dark when we arrived at Paine Grande.
Day 6: Another easy day. We woke up late, probably
9am, and were late for breakfast, but they served us anyway. We had toast,
eggs, cereal, and coffee. After leisurely packing up, we hiked up to Refugio
Grey. The refuge was closed for the season, but we camped on an awesome sand
beach right on Lago Grey. Getting up there was pretty easy, but there were a
few spots that definitely had cliffs on the side and tricky rocks to negotiate.
Those sections were tough and an inexperienced mountaineer would have a tough
time. Plus, seeing the glacier in the distance was quite a tease. You saw it
and thought you were getting close, but there was another two hours or so to
hike.
The weather that day was a bit overcast, but not
rainy. Alternating between hat, gloves, and pushing up shirt sleeves allowed us
to maintain a comfortable temp depending on our level of exertion and ambient
temperature change. We also walked right up next to some crazy looking bird
with a read head. I tried to get a pic, but he flew away. There were a few
together and they were not afraid of us at all, it was amazing how close they
were.
As we hiked along, you could see big icebergs in Lago
Grey. The ice was bright blue and made even more stunning by the dull grey
color of the lake. The ice bergs became more and more cluttered on the lake
surface as we got closer to camp. Right off the shore, there were pretty big
ice formations and we could actually grab them and haul them ashore.
After setting up camp, we hiked on to the viewpoint
for Glacier Grey and chilled there till dusk. Wow. Wow. I could just sit there
looking at the ice for hours. It was even more beautiful to look at the huge
icebergs right off the shore than the huge glacier further away. These icebergs
were huge, and 87.5% of the ice is under water, so they are actually massive.
It started to sprinkle a little rain on us and it was
getting dark, so we cruised back to camp. At camp, we took Felipe's advice and
finished off our scotch in style. His suggestion was to drink the scotch "on
the rocks" from chunks of ice from an iceberg we hauled ashore. Pretty awesome
idea, and it was the perfect end to my favorite day in Patagonia.

Later in the evening, we saw headlights approach. The
party of 2 turned out to be two cool Polish people. They got a late start and
hiked up to the glacier from Campamento Las Carretas. The next day we planned
to also stay at Las Carretas, but were bummed to hear that they had a bad
experience there with mice. Even with no food in the tent, mice were climbing
and chewing on their tent all night long. They ended up with nine fairly large
holes in the tent. We were using Ken's brand new Golite tent, and we didn't
want to ruin it on the first trip, so we planned a longer hike the next day and
went to sleep early.
All in all, I estimate we hiked 14 kilometers that
day, which comes out to be 8.7 miles.
Day 7: Hardest hiking day of my life. This was a
tough one, and we knew it going in.
We woke up at 6 and were out by 7. Even then we needed out head lights
for the first hour of the hike. We were in high spirits, and the trek back to
Paine Grande was uneventful and fairly easy, however Ken had a small slip on a
descent, but no real damage was inflicted. Since we were out of booze, we each
bought 5 beers at Paine Grande. We since looked it up, and a can of beer
weights about 1 lb, so we increased the weight of our packs by about 12%.
From Paine Grande, we headed out toward the South
Administration Center, which the map estimates to be about 20 kilometers away
(12.5 miles). However the trial was frustrating. Lots of rises and descents,
climbs and falls. How frustrating to lose the elevation you gained, plus going downhill
is pretty tough. Finally we got out on the prairie and could cruise. It was
completely flat grassland and might have fit in with Africa's savannah. About
this time, Ken told me that his knee was hurting pretty bad. Turns out the
small slip earlier continued to become aggravated and grew to become a big
problem. We slowed the pace down
and kept going because there was nothing else to do. Now we were probably
hiking at normal speed whereas before we were cruising very quickly.

We reached Las Carretas and it looked like a real
crappy camp site, so we were glad to have left early so we could get further
out. From there, the trail continued on the grassy steep until we finally hit a
road. We followed the road and found the South Administration center where they
displayed the natural flora and fauna. There was a person there who was
sympathetic to our position and showed us a nice place to eat and rest next to
the lake. However, he would not let us camp there; we had to move on to the
campsite Pehoe. Pehoe was another two hours up the dirt road, so we took a
solid 1 hour break before setting off. That was the only real break we had all
day, other stops were two or five minute granola bar and water breaks. There was one golden moment at the
South Administration Center. Since we had finished the W a day earlier than we
anticipated, the guy stationed there called the bus for us and changed out pick
up time and location. We were getting picked up the next day from Pehoe, so we
didn't have to kill another day or hike all the way back to the Administration
center for the ride at 2pm.
Hitch hiking would have been a total blessing, but no
one stopped for us. Even a pickup truck with nothing in the back went past and
ignored our outstretched thumbs. Finally, no more cars were passing because it
was getting dark, so we put our heads down and just kept walking.
It was especially painful seeing the Explora hotel in
the distance. It's a 5 star palace that costs over a thousand USD per night.
The hike might just be barely worth it if we got to finish there, but instead
we had to push on further to the camp site just a few minutes past the
hotel. Finally we reached camp. It
was dark and we set up the tent, drank a beer, and went to the lake to filter
water. My pump started to clog up so water was hard to get and I was really
glad that was the last day of use for it.
This last day of hiking I estimate at 40 kilometers.
That's 24.8 miles, almost a marathon, but with a 45 lb pack. I have been having
trouble with my hips, and I used duct tape to try and soften the pain, but I'm
not sure if it worked.
That night was really windy and crappy. It rained off
and on and the wind ripped all night. There was definitely a storm brewing
behind us as we hiked out and it hit us on the flatland later that night. The
weather continued into the next day and we were really happy that our pick up
reservation and time changed. Also, it was awesome that the camp site had a
shelter. But even so, the wind was coming in and smashing out tent all night.

We spent the next day eating and drinking tea until
the bus came. We also finished off our epic game of Mexican dice. It's a game
usually played to 10,000 points, but since this was a multi day trip, we set
50,000 as the end point. It was a really close battle the whole way, but I was
able to edge out in front at the last few rolls and just barely won. We played
for the high stakes of a shot and a beer, a prize I still need to collect on.
The bus arrived 30 minutes late, but we didn't mind
since we were sitting on a bench listening to Reggae on Ken's iPhone. The same
driver who took us out was responsible for our return, and we both passed out
for the trip back to Puerto Natales.
When we arrived back at the hostel, Omar was a bit
surprised to see us early, but he was cool with it because it was low season
and we were the only guests and source of revenue.
We chilled in Natales for the next day and recovered
by eating large amount of food and drinking plenty of beer. A pain in my knee
developed, and I still have it two weeks later. I did go to the doc and she
thought I pulled something, but there was nothing to do besides do some new
stretches and wait.
Conclusions/ Insights:
1. It's all about the people- we met lots of
interesting people traveling.
- Polish couple. The girl has been traveling for
2 months and the guy just joined her. They are doing a bicycle tour after
Torres del Paine, then the girl is going home and the guy will continue a solo
bike tour. He's done 5 tours alone in S. America on a bike before.
- Dutch couple. They live 20 min via bike from
Amsterdam and have taken 4 months off to travel.
- British couple. These guys have been traveling
for the past 9 months and have another 3 to go. They were in India, Australia,
and South America.
- Freaked out South Americans. This guy was
arriving late at Italiano without a sleeping bag and was really losing his
cool. He explained that they were waiting for some people, then were going to
hike to Paine Grande. We had to move on, but we saw them at Paine Grande later,
so they did make it.
- Omar. Our host at the hostel was super chill
and maybe a little bit too laid back for my taste. He was helpful getting a bus
and everything, and he made us an egg for breakfast too, so he turned out
alright in my book.
- Many more that did not make it into this
already super long post.
2. Drinking straight from the streams- Felipe and
Marcelo told us you can do this, which we did and were fine. It's an ultra
remote spot and the water is really clean.
3. Great weather. Out of our six days, we had four
with stunning beautiful warm sunny weather. While I was buying some gear, an old
dude at REI totally blessed the trip, maybe he had something to do with this
boon.
4. Perseverance. When you don't know how much further
you have to go to get to camp and you're already tired, it's tough. It's
important to keep a positive mood and keep moving. Food helps elevate the mood,
so have a snack.
5. Hiking in the Southern Hemisphere was very disorienting
because the sun is in the other side of sky.
6. The flushed water in a toilet does spiral the other
way, but most toilets are high efficiency and don't use enough water to see it
swirl... the water just gurgles down.
7. Age matters. I'm 28 and my body hurts more than it would have just a few years ago. It's important to have these adventures early in life.
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